Magazine Logo
Home | Customer Service |   1-800-542-9125

 
Digital Landing

Subscribe
Back Issues
Woodworking Plans
Technique Downloads
Submit Tips
Magazine Patterns
Online Extras
Article Corrections
Meet the Editors
Article Corrections

  Issue 61 Tail-Thumping Beaver   Page 70. Incorect measurement on the axles in Cut List. Axles should be 2 5/8"

CNC   Issue 60 Computer-Generated Woodworking  

Page 67, Incorrect price listed on Laguna CNC. (All prices printed in the magazine subject to change.)
Laguna CNC IQ
Model: MCNC IQ HHC 24 x36”
$6,779.00



  Issue 60 Tough-Enough Road Grader  

Page 57, Figure 3, Frame
Change the 1 1/8" to the left of the Frame A to 7/8".
The dimension from the bottom of the 3/4" dado to the top edge of the frame is 3/4", Dado, 1/8" deep. Click HERE to see.


Chaise   Issue 59 Adirondack
Chaise Lounge
 

Page 47
3rd column, Step 2

“Referencing the pattern in Figure 3 found online under Patterns at woodcraftmagazine.com, angle-cut the top ends….” Click HERE for pattern.

Walrus   Issue 57 Waddling Walrus  

The sides of the walrus head (part C) should be 1/2" thick, not 1 1/2".

The axle (part H) should be 5/16" dia.. (A slightly smaller axle will freely spin in a 3/8" dia. hole.)

The diameter of piston hole for the head is 3/8". (You'll find that dimension on Figure 1.)

7/32" axle pegs aren't $14.00. A pack of eight (#153635) costs just $2.99.

  Issue 56 Arts & Crafts End Table  

The “notch” dimensions on parts (C) and (D) are switched. (C) “notch” should be 7/8" notch, 1" deep. (D) should be 7/8" notch, 7/8" deep.

See here.


  Issue 55 Super Simple
Pen Box
  There was a measurement error on the Figure. 1 1/2" should be 7/8".
See here.

  Issue 53 Tough-Enough Front-End Loader  

Page 40, Figure 6
Change 60 to 30 on art.

Click here to see.

On page 35, the distance for the axle peg hole should be 2 1/4" not 2 1/2". If you look at my drawings it will say the correct measurement of 2 1/4". The correction.

On page 42, part W has another 1/8"  hole that is drilled on the edge, so it should show dotted lines to indicate the location. It will show up in my drawings. The measurement is 1- 7/16" from the top point of the part W or 3/8" from the inside corner of the part. That measurement is the center of the hole. Click here to see.


  Issue 53 Woodsense: Elm   Under the "What you'll pay" section, 10 millimeter should be 10 mil.

birdhouse   Issue 52 Build a
Bluebird House
  For a bluebird house, the perch comes off. The entry hole will remain at 1-1/2" but be circular (allowing you to drill it with a Forstner bit) and remain centered at 5" above the top face of the bottom or floor. (Go with a
1-9/16" hole for western bluebirds.) Four 3/8" drain holes will be drilled
in the bottom 1/2" in from the interior walls. Three 3/8" ventilation
holes will be drilled in each side 3/4" below the roof. To ensure the
right size for bluebirds, the sides and bottom will be reduced to 4"
long (5" for western bluebirds). Note that the screws in the front
and back of the birdhouse allow for fast removal and clean out
following the nesting season. Finally, avoid applying finish
of any kind to the birdhouse. Instead, let it weather naturally.
When installing outdoors, mount the birdhouse 5" to 7"' above the
ground. Click here for full size pattern.

  Issue 51 Tough-Enough
Toy Truck
  Page 60, Figure 2. Clarification on illustration: See PDF Here.

  Issue 51 Up-Scale Music Stand   Note:
Finished leg thickness: 1"
Finished leg width: 1 1/4"

  Issue 50 All-American
Pie Safe
  Page 57, Make the Drawer, Step 1, Part O should be Part Q
Page 52. There were two incorrect callouts on Figure 1: Pie Safe Overall Exploded View. See PDF Here.

  Issue 49 Doll High Chair   In the Doll High Chair in issue 49, Figure 5: Tray View on page 29, the radius on the arms should be 1/2" instead of 12".

  Issue 49 Arts & Crafts Bookcase   Step 3, page 55:
Change "cut 1/8" slots 1 1/2" long and 1/4" deep" to "cut 1/8" slots 1 1/2" long and 1/2" deep"Page 60: Convenience-Plus Buying Guide, item #7: Backplate, qty. 2 (Not 2")

  Issue 48 Tile-Top Box  

In the “Tile-Top” Box story on page 47, the dimension lines in the Front Section View of Figure 1 shifted up and need to be corrected. Click Here.

There was an error in the miter sled art. The stiffener should measure 18" long, not 14". Click Here.


  Issue 46 Adirondack Glider  

Page 27. Figure 2 callout 3/16" counterbored clearance holes, 1/4" deep should read as follows: 1/2" counterbore, 1/4" deep Seat Rail Assembly callout should read:
1/2" counterbore, 1/4" deep for #10 x 3 1/2" exterior flathead screws Page 33. Qty. for Base rails (Q) should be 2

Page 33, Cut List — Change Qty. for Q to 2 (instead of 4)
Change width for T from 5" to 5 1/8"
Under Hardware/Supplies, change 2 1/2" hexhead machine bolts to 3"; change 3" hexhead machine bolts to 3 1/2".

Page 33, Figure 8—Change 1/4-20 x 2 1/2" to 1/4-20 x 3” bolt (upper callout)
Change 1/4-20 x 2 1/2" to 1/4-20 x 3 1/2” bolt

Page 31, Figure 6—Note: Check that screw holes for part (R) do not intersect screw holes for parts (P) and (Q).

Page 32, Convenience-Plus Buying Guide—Entry 3: (2 needed)
Entry 4: (2 needed)


  Issue 45 Using Calipers in the Shop   Page 33, Dial or Digital
(0.8125" = 1 3/16") should be (0.8125" = 13/16")

  Issue 44 Holiday Tabletop Sleigh   Page 53, Figure 2: Form Layouts
Bottom drawing
R=2
Distance from left end to intersecting dashed line: 4 1/16" (not 4 3/16")
Widths of bottom: 2" and 2" (not 1 5/16" and 1 5/16") Patterns on pages 56, 57, and 58: 1 square = 1/2" (not 1 square = 1")

  Issue 44 Pagoda
Jewelry Box
  Page 29: In Step 2 under Fit the drawers to the side assemblies: Instead of adjusting the router bit height, simply take an initial cut of around 3/16" deep.

  Issue 42 Stackable
Wine Racks
  Page 67: the thickness of the upper front rail (A) is 3/4", not 1".
Page 68: note in Figure 2 that the distance from the bottom of the arc in the template to the straight edge is 1 3/16".
Page 69: in Figure 3 R=1 1/8"

  Issue 42 Office Desk   Page 25, Figure 4:Length of N is 26", not 26 1/4"
Page 27, Figure 5, Distance between parts R and S is 15 1/2", not 11 1/4"
Note: between Step 4 and 5:
Consider mounting the keyboard brackets on the underside of parts (S) at this time while the subtop is still open. Use scrap for spacers for equal alignment of the hardware from front to back.
Page 28, Step 9. Step copy should read: For the optional keyboard shelf (JJ), cut the 3/4" plywood length to 1" less than the dimension between the keyboard brackets. Use #0 biscuits (not #20) between parts (U) and (V) and parts (XX) and (YY). Chamfers should be 1/4".
Page 31, Cut List changes:
JJ should also have an asterisk
OO= 19 7/8" long; Qty is 1
TT, Qty is 4
XX= 2 1/2" wide 
YY= 2 1/2" wide
ZZ= 7 1/8" long; Qty is 2

  Issue 41 Micro-Adjustable Box-Joint Jig   Page 59, the spacing for the machine screw holes in part F in Figure 1 should read 1 3/4", not 3 1/3".

  Issue 40 Fast-and-EasySling Chair   Page 49, the first hole is 6" in from the left end.
Page 49, all holes receiving connector bolt nuts must be 3/8".
Page 49, the distance from the left end of the adjustable fence (B) to the dovetailed recess is 4".
Page 51, entry no. 2 in Convenience-Plus Buying Guide should read Freud Round-over Bit, 7/8" R (1/2" SH) (Optional).
Page 51, foam entry in Hardware/Supplies should read 2 x 4 1/2" x 15" foam (from fabric store).

  Issue 40 Hand-Tool Cabinet   Note the following correction for Door Front Raised Panel in the Cut List on page 31 of the April/May 2011 Hand-Tool Cabinet. O* Door front raised panel 3/4", 11 7/8", 34 3/4", 2, M

  Issue 39 Country Church Birdhouse   On page 58, step 2 should read:
2 Mill two pieces of cedar to 1/2" x 6 x 24" On page 74, use the resized window and door patterns: Click Here

    Issue 38 Mailbox   On page 8, Ron Hamilton's letter should have read "case dadoes and rabbets are 7/32" deep 23/32" wide" instead of 2 3/32" wide.

  Issue 38 Bookcase With Flair   The 1/4" x 1/4" notches shown in Figure 4 on page 36 should actually be 1/4" high x 1/2" wide.

  Issue 37 Arts & Crafts Rocker   The "Leg Detail" drawing is in error. The offset distance at the bottom of the drawing should be 3" instead of the 4 3/4" dimension shown. The 3" offset added to the 1 3/4"-wide leg yields the 4 3/4" measurement for the leg blank width noted in the Cut List. The top of the leg is 1 1/16", as shown in the corrected drawing at right. Click Here Double-checking measurements before diving into a project is smart, but once the sawdust starts flying, don't be too surprised if the Cut List becomes more a "handy reference" than an "end-all guide." You'll note that Matthew cut and shaped legs and rails, and then cut the other parts to fit. Templates-like those used to make the rear legs, arms and rockers-are useful for test-fitting and refining dimensions before committing to good wood.

  Issue 34 Collectors Box   On page 60 (Dividing Drawers), the formula for notch-spacing for long dividers should be 15 1/4" instead of 25 1/4". On page 66, (Luminaries), pieces G and L should be marked F and G, respectively, and the piece behind the copper should be marked J.

  Issue 31 Arts & Crafts Blanket Chest   Location for mounting gas strut on lid: The lower portion of the bracket is in the front corner of the box 7 1/4" down from the top edge of the side to the top edge of the bracket plate. The upper portion of the bracket is 15 1/2" in from the front edge of the lid and 4" in from the edge of the breadboard end.

  Issue 30 Schoolhouse Regulator Clock   In response to a reader's request for more direction to mount the hinges on the Schoolhouse Regulator Clock, designer/builder Robert J. Settich offered the following advice.

Figure 4 in Issue #30 (page 55) shows the door from the back. And Photo G on page 56 shows how you fold the hinge back on itself to set the projection: the barrel of the hinge is past the surface of the door frame side (part E). Here's an additional tip for you: When I'm working with small hinges, I put a piece of double-faced tape on the leaf of the hinge so it won't slide. 

I've also attached a couple of additional sketches. The one named Door_Hinge is a different view of how the hinge block (J) relates to the other parts. Its function is to create a mounting surface for the hinge that's flush with the edge of the door. Click Here

Next, refer to the drawing called Door_Install. This shows a 1/16" spacer under the door's edge. This creates clearance so that the door can swing without scraping the surface of the frame (E). I mentioned this spacer in the article, but the drawing makes it easier to understand. I originally wanted to include a photo of this procedure in the article, but there's never enough room to include all the words, drawings, and photos that we would like to have. Click Here

Regarding the clock face angle:

Figure 6 should indicate that each angle of the dial segments (L) is cut at 22.5 degrees.

For your future reference, here's an easy way to figure a situation such as this: The angled cuts of an enclosed shape total 360 degrees. In the case of this regular octagon (with all sides identical), there are sixteen cuts on the ends of the pieces. 360 divided by 16 = 22.5 degrees. With a mitered four-sided box, there are eight cuts of 45 degrees: 8 x 45 = 360 degrees. This system also works when there are a mixture of angles, such as the door frame shown in Figure 2 on page 54. Add up all of the internal angles, and the result will be 360 degrees.

  Issue 29 Small-Shop Dust Collection   A reader pointed out what he considers to be a dangerous implication in this story-that the use of metal piping eliminates static electricity. To clarify the issue, Editor Jim Harrold explained, “The entire dust collection system needs to be protected from tool collector via metal piping or braided cooper wire establishing a connection from the piping to the tool.”

  Issue 25 Heirloom Pendulum Cradle   Not to worry. With the spindles in place, considering the thickness of the wood in the spindles, the spacing measured 2 1/8" on the sides and 2 5/8" at the ends. We did not make this clear in the article. For even less spacing, add still another spindle and adjust the spacing between spindles as needed.
  • Fig. 3, Keyhole Hanger Mortising Jig, page 24: Position 1 is for routing stile (C); Position 2 is for routing upright (M). Click Here
  • Fig 7, Cradle Hanging Detail, page 25: The hanger bolt side is #10-24 x 1 1/2". Click Here
  • Fig.8, Cradle Side Exploded View, page 26: The upper biscuit location on part G is 2" from the top end and 2 1/2" from the bottom. Click Here
  • Fig. 12, Cradle Exploded View, page 27 Fig. 12, Cradle Exploded View, page 27: That part L dadoes are 1/4" deep. Also, the hanger bolt is #10-24 x 1 1/2".: That part L dadoes are 1/4" deep. Also, the hanger bolt is #10-24 x 1 1/2". Click Here
  • Buying Guide Note: #12K10 - You need only one pack of #10-24 Inserts (10 in a pack).

    Issue 25 Pendulum Doll Cradle  
The "Pendulum Doll Cradle" article in Issue 25 (Oct/Nov 08) listed two incorrect dimensions for Part D which includes a 1/2" hole, 5/16" deep.

ImageFig. 5, Upright & Pendulum Detail (page 31): Part D-The hole diameter was incorrectly listed as 5/16" in this illustration.


Full-Sized Pattern for Pendulum and Upright Top (page 74):Part D-The hole depth was incorrectly listed as 3/8"on the pattern.
Image

  Issue 24 A Cut-Above Cutting Board   The designer/builder for the “A Cut-Above Cutting Board” project story was incorrectly listed as Gary Carter on page 64. The designer/builder is Stephen Johnson whose bio did appear on page page 67.

  Issue 23 Dual-Purpose Deacon's Bench   Steve Rigrish of Columbus, Ohio, should have been identified as the designer/builder of the “Dual-Purpose Deacon’s Bench” on page 29. The Deacon’s Bench is an option included with the Scott Phillips’ “Trestle Table and Benches” project.

    Issue 21 Arts & Crafts Shelf Clock   Feb/March 08 issue, page 62, "Make the back and trim the columns" section, Step 4: The revised instruction should read, "Cut the columns (A) to the exact length of the back (G) minus the tenons and the thickness of two 1/4" spacers. To do this, lay a column on the back as shown in Photo D, placing a couple of 1/4"-thick spacers to flush the end of the column to the shoulder cut of the tenon. Now you can accurately mark the opposite end. Use a stopblock setup at your mitersaw to ensure that all of the columns are identical in length. Finish-sand the columns and back."

    Issue 20 On-Demand Folding Table   ImageDec 07/Jan 08 issue, page 10: Note the revised locations of the 3/16" shank holes for the cleats (B) in Figure 1. The 2" measurement should be taken from the toe not the heel where shown at left. Click the image to the right for the enhanced view.

    Issue 20 Intarsia George   IN RESPONSE TO PHONE CALLS I have received about the “Intarsia George” project (Dec 2007/Jan 2008 issue), I would like to offer some additional information in answer to the most-asked questions. On page 59 in Step 4, rather than “cut the parts just outside the lines,” just cut the outside edges first. Since these cuts do not fit against other pieces, this is a good way to test your scrollsawing skills before cutting the interior parts that have to fit together. Later in the same step instead of trying to “split and save the line,” simply saw through the center of the line. Just remember to leave the paper pattern on. If you encounter a fit problem, trim the pattern lines that are still showing. A few have asked about the “slot-cutting blade” mentioned on page 63. Rotary saw blades are inexpensive and available anywhere Dremel tools are sold. However, for major hair and fur detailing, I prefer using the Wonder Wheel because it enables me to hold the piece with both hands. One final note: I used an aspen dowel to make the white dot on George’s eye. -Judy Gale Roberts (intarsia.com)



©2013 by Woodcraft Supply, LLC